From the 2008 catalog
Clematis vines are spectacular in bloom, some varieties yielding not only a primary season of bloom but also a later, lesser flush of flowers, and their seed heads can be very attractive. They provide vertical accents in our gardens as well as cover for less than attractive spots—think chain link fences! Additionally, some clematis are happy to drape over walls or ramble as ground covers. They can produce large (4–6”) flowers or masses of tiny flowers, and the vines vary in potential height from under 4’ to over 25’. They are hardy and long-lived plants.
How They Climb
The vines climb by twisting leaf stems around a support such as a trellis, open-frame obelisk or tuteur. Any frame over 1/2” around is too large for the stems to grasp, but larger frames can be adapted by using netting, wire or string. Since clematis vines vary in height, more than one type can be grown together on a trellis, possibly with different flowering times, with a shorter-growing variety covering the bare lower stems of a leggy taller one.
Traditionally, roses are used as a living host for clematis, and viburnums, barberries, smokebush and cotoneaster are also possibilities. If using a shrub as a support, plant the clematis about two feet away and guide it into the rose/shrub so that the clematis won’t be in competition with the host plant for water and nutrients.
Planting
Clematis should be planted in the spring, in a generous-sized hole with good soil and added compost. Set the plant in the hole about two inches deeper than it was grown in the pot; this encourages new stems. Use a 2–4” mulch, being careful to keep the mulch well back from the stems, and be sure the plant gets plenty of water.
All clematis, young and mature, need lots of water—some growers recommend a minimum of one gallon per week to as much as four gallons per week for each plant.
Pruning
The pruning of clematis seems to be a hang-up for some gardeners. Clematis are divided into groups by pruning needs and time of bloom.
Group I — Large-flowered clematis. Divided into A: early blooming, and B: late blooming.
Group II — Small-flowered clematis. Divided into A: early blooming, and B: late blooming.

Group IA, the early, large-flowered clematis, benefits from light pruning in early spring when the buds begin to swell. Starting at the top and working down, take out dead growth and trim shoots back to the first pair of strong buds. If you have a tangle of stems at the top, prune just below the tangle. Example of this type: Clematis ‘Miss Bateman.’
Group IIA, the early, small-flowered clematis, benefis from tidying. In late spring or early summer, after flowering, trim the shoots only enough to neaten if necessary. Example of this type: Clematis macropetala ‘Blue Bird.’
Groups IB and IIB, the late, large-flowered and late, small-flowered clematis, take hard pruning. In early spring, when the buds begin to swell, cut stems to within about one foot from the ground, leaving two to four sets of buds per stem. Example of Group IB: Clematis Jackmanii. Example of Group IIB: Clematis texensis ‘Duchess of Albany.’
Some final tips:
- Never prune into strong woody stems; the clematis may use this as an excuse to die.
- Do not prune in the fall.
- Save the tag that comes with your plant. It should tell you when your variety blooms and suggest pruning times.




