March 31st, 2010

Pink Annabelle Hydrangea

Hydrangea arborescens
Invincibelle Spirit Hydrangea

A color breakthrough. The 6-8″ mop-head flowers change from dark, hot pink to a clear pink that is not affected by soil acidity. The flower buds are produced on new wood, so you’ll still get bloom even after severe winters. Flowers until frost. A single plant can produce 100 or more flower heads in a summer.

3-4′ wide and tall - sun or part sun

March 29th, 2010

No Meyer Lemons… Again

You may have been wondering why there is a photo of the Meyer lemon in our color photo section. Although the photo caption refers to page 42, you will not find the Meyer lemon there, because we were informed by the grower just before going to print that it would not be available.

We did remove it from the plant listings on page 42, but did not remember to delete it from the photo pages.

Our apologies for inadvertently including it. We will have it some year, but it has been very hard to get!

March 23rd, 2010

Catalog Has Been Posted

Plant Sale catalog cover 2010
The catalog went to the printer yesterday morning and they broke the land speed record getting it printed — the printed copies have already delivered to the school!

But it will be a little while until it mails or gets distributed to local businesses, so you can see it here first.

March 23rd, 2010

Kale and Chard Recipes

As promised in the catalog article Year One: Growing Vegetables, here are a couple of my favorite recipes for using kale and Swiss chard.

Kale & Apple Saute

Dense, tart apples such as Zestar!, Haralson, Granny Smith and Honeycrisp work best in this recipe.

1 apple, sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, sliced
1/4 teaspoon curry powder (optional)
1 lb kale, tough stems and ribs removed and leaves coarsely chopped
1/2 cup water or broth
Salt to taste

Heat oil in a large pot or saute pan over moderately high heat. Then saute onion, stirring occasionally, until golden. Add apple and curry powder and saute, stirring, until apple is almost tender, about 2 minutes.

Add kale and water and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until kale is tender and most of liquid is evaporated, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

From Linden Hills Co-op

Pasta Alfredo with Swiss Chard

Serves 4. Ready In < 30 minutes

1 pound Swiss chard
8 ounces uncooked penne pasta
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 cloves garlic -- minced
3/4 cup part-skim ricotta cheese
1/4 cup grated fresh Parmesan cheese -- divided
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper

Remove stems and center ribs from Swiss chard. Coarsely chop; set aside.

Cook pasta according to package directions, omitting salt and fat. Drain pasta in a colander over a bowl, reserving 3/4 cup cooking liquid. Set aside; keep warm.

Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add garlic, and saute 30 seconds. Add Swiss chard; saute 3 minutes or until wilted.

Combine the reserved 3/4 cup cooking liquid, ricotta cheese, 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, salt, and pepper in a small bowl; stir well.

Combine the pasta, Swiss chard mixture, and ricotta cheese mixture, and toss well. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.

From cdkitchen.com

Freshly picked Swiss chard is also great when it’s just cooked with a little water and not much else, as in this recipe from simplyrecipes.com. Remember, it will cook down a lot, so don’t be afraid of the big pile that goes into the pan:

1 large bunch of fresh Swiss chard
1 small clove garlic, sliced
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp water
Pinch of dried crushed red pepper
1 teaspoon butter
Salt

Rinse out the Swiss chard leaves thoroughly. Remove the toughest third of the stalk, discard or save for another recipe. Roughly chop the leaves into inch-wide strips.

Heat a saucepan on medium high, add olive oil, a few small slices of garlic and the crushed red pepper. Saute for about a minute. Add the chopped Swiss chard leaves. Cover. Check after about 5 minutes. If it looks dry, add a couple tablespoons of water. Flip the leaves over in the pan, so that what was on the bottom, is now on the top. Cover again.

Check for doneness after another 5 minutes (remove a piece and taste it). Add salt to taste, and a small amount of butter. Remove the chard to a serving dish.

March 23rd, 2010

Mauna Loa Daylily

Hemerocallis ‘Mauna Loa’

Fragrant 5″ gold tangerine blend with crimped red wire edges, some rosy blush and a light green throat.

18-24″ sun or part sun

March 20th, 2010

Some Thoughts on Responsible Gardening from Mr. Yuk

In the 40+ years that I have gardened, I have seen increases in the selection of plants, mulches, herbicides and pesticides available to home gardeners. I have also seen decreases in natural pollinators, increases in public health concerns regarding water pollution from herbicides and pesticides, increased information about invasive species, and changes in the demographics walking around gardens. All these changes have prompted me to propose the concept of “responsible gardening.”

As gardeners, we can be stewards of a small, personal patch of the earth. We can take our own actions to increase plants available to pollinators, butterflies and other beneficial insects, birds and other animals, while enjoying our own harvests of food and beauty. We can share this beauty with our family and neighbors.

For example, my garden is on a corner in a suburb without sidewalks. Many people and animals pass my garden on a daily basis. I’m delighted to see them enjoy the plants, birds and butterflies that are daily visitors to my garden. Strangers frequently comment to me on what they see, ask for names and samples of particular plants, and tell me that this garden gives them joy. Neighbors engage in discussions about plants, herbicides, pollinators (mason bees), and water pollution. My garden has become a focal point for community, and I am delighted.

Responsible gardening is making decisions that improve your stewardship of your personal garden, and at a minimum, do not contribute to the harm of anyone or anything in your community. Gardening decisions include your choice and placement of plants, use of herbicides and/or pesticides, and use of mulch. These choices can impact your community, and are addressed as questions and answers below. Websites are listed to encourage people to find more information on specific topics, and help people make informed decisions.

Plant Choices

What should I do with plants that are toxic to people and/or animals?

We grow poisonous plants because we enjoy their appearance or fragrance, their use as food (e.g. cherry – eat the fruit only), and their contributions to improving the physical conditions in our homes (shading, boosting humidity, moderating wind and providing privacy).

We should remember that adult humans, children, and animals do not always have the same responses to poisonous plants.

Inform yourself about toxic plants, using the Friends School Annual Sale catalog, the my other post on poisonous plants, and some of these web sites for information about toxicity to animals. Decide whether there are nontoxic plant alternatives that will satisfy you, and/or where your toxic plants can be safely placed (e.g. not on the boulevard).

Websites listing SAFE (nontoxic) plants for humans:
www.calpoison.com/
Ohio State University Non-Toxic Plants list (PDF)

Website listing SAFE (nontoxic) plants for animals:
www.aspca.org safe plants page
www.sniksnak.com safe plants page

Website listing TOXIC plants for animals:
www.aspca.org toxic plants page
www.sniksnak.com toxic plants page

What is meant by disease-resistance or disease-tolerance, and what plants do these terms apply to?

The term “disease-resistance” refers to the ability of a plant to escape infection by a particular plant disease-causing organism (pathogen). The term “disease-tolerance” refers to the ability of a plant to grow without severe symptoms of the disease that has infected it. In other words, these plants will produce a crop, regardless of any particular disease symptoms. Specific disease-resistance / tolerance / or susceptibility is genetic.

These terms are applied to economically important crops, such as tomatoes, grapes, cherries, etc.

Below are examples of some disease-resistance terminology for tomatoes.

V = Verticillium wilt disease
F = Fusarium wilt race I
FF = Fusarium wilt races I & II
N = Root know nematodes
T = Tobacco mosaic virus

A particular tomato cultivar with disease / pest resistance genes will be described as Cultivar (xx), e.g.: Roma (VF) is the Roma tomato. Roma is resistant to the tomato diseases Verticillium wilt disease and Fusarium wilt race I. If no information is provided, assume that the cultivar is either susceptible to everything, or has not been tested, e.g. Brandywine (none).

What if the plant I want to grow has not been evaluated for disease-resistance or susceptibility, or has been evaluated as disease-susceptible?

Many plants, including heirloom varieties of popular plants (such as tomatoes) have not been evaluated for disease responses. If you choose to plant these or identified susceptible varieties, just realize that they may become infected with a particular plant disease, which may reduce plant growth or your harvest. If your plants become infected, and you choose to use an herbicide or pesticide, you can impact water quality, pollinator populations, and possibly your own health.

I am planting a hummingbird and/or butterfly garden. Are there any things I should take into consideration regarding my plant choices?

There are many things to consider in creating a hummingbird and/or butterfly gardens. Some of these websites should be helpful:

www.rubythroat.org
www.thegardenhelper.com
Hummingbird Gardening guide (University of Wisconsin PDF)
www.butterflywebsite.com
www.butterfly–garden.com

Remember to check on the toxicity of particular recommended plants, if young children and/or pets can be exposed to these. For example, Indian Pink (Spigelia marilandica) is a highly rated hummingbird nectar plant, but is toxic when eaten in large quantities.

What are “invasive species” and why should I care?

“An unofficial definition could be that an invasive species is a species that does not naturally occur in a specific area and whose introduction does or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” From www.invasivespecies.org

Invasive plants are plants that can thrive in regions outside their natural range, and can replace native species of plants. Examples in Minnesota include buckthorn and purple loosestrife. www.invasivespeciesinfo.gov

You should care because invasive species crowd out native species and reduce the biodiversity of a region. You are aware of invasive animal species in Minnesota, including zebra mussels. The seeds of many invasive species can be spread by birds and animals, resulting in an increased distribution of the particular plant. Growing identified invasive species in your garden contributes to the spread of the invasive species, and is irresponsible.

You can learn more about invasive species at these websites:
Minnesota DNR
www.invasivespeciesinfo.gov

Products Available to Gardeners

Are there downsides to using herbicides and/or pesticides in my garden?

Herbicides and pesticides contribute to water pollution and a reduction in natural insect populations, including pollinators (bees and moths). If you have not harvested as much fruit or vegetables as you expected, it may well be due to a pesticide-caused reduction or elimination of a pollinator.

Are all garden mulches equal, except for their price?

  • Garden mulches are not equal in their impacts on the environment and/or dogs.
  • Rubber mulches are flammable, and they contribute to water pollution by leaching toxic chemicals.
  • Cocoa bean mulch is toxic, but attractive to dogs. Dogs eat the mulch and can be poisoned.

Mr. Yuk, AKA Sara Barsel, Ph.D., is a local scientist, educator, and passionate gardener. She volunteers for the Friends School Plant Sale as Mr. Yuk because she values the plant sale, maintaining healthy life forms, and responsible gardening.

March 15th, 2010

Monkey Puzzle Tree

Araucaria araucana

In its native Chile, this “living fossil” conifer (related to the Norfolk Island Pine) can grow to be 150′ tall and 2,000 years old, but you can keep it in a pot of African violet mix potting soil. The reason for the name (in French it’s désespoir des singes or “monkeys’ despair”) is the tree’s armor of overlapping sharply pointed leaves that cover its trunk and branches.

For more on its care when you bring it in for the winter as a houseplant see: http://www.plantcare.com/encyclopedia/monkey-puzzle-tree-82.aspx

6′ sun

March 12th, 2010

Catalog Is Two Weeks Away

The 2010 catalog will be going to print the week of March 22, and will be posted here even before the printed copies are delivered to the school (let alone arrive in the mail, for those of you on our mailing list).

It will be available in PDF format, as in past years, located on the Catalog page of the website.

We’ll post news about it here as well as on our Facebook page, and we’ll send an email to our list, so sign up for that if you want to be notified.

Now I have to get back to working on the catalog!

March 8th, 2010

Black and Blue Salvia

Salvia guarnatica ‘Black and Blue’

Most flowers that hummingbirds like are red or orange, but this one is deep blue. It is not hardy here, but it will flower like this from late summer through the fall.

36-48″ sun

March 2nd, 2010

Yellow Bleeding Heart


Pseudofumaria lutea (AKA Yellow Corydalis)

A nice little shade plants that blooms from spring to even after frosts. The blue-green foliage always looks fresh and the cheery yellow flowers never need deadheading. If happy with its location it will form a large clump and also seed itself in an un-obnoxious way. Very hardy despite its delicate looks. What more could you ask?

12″ part shade